July 4, 2017 Madagascar
As I watch the rain impaired Sun set over South Africa on my way to Namibia, I think of my sunset friend, who I now call Koba (pronounced like Cuba, the country) who each afternoon and beyond into the night sold food from a basket, as I enjoyed and shared the sunsets with my Facebook friends. She stood for hours at the meeting of the streets, to sell Koba (which is a dessert food consisting of rice, banana, spices then all wrapped into a banana leaf.) As she did this, she would share bits of her own food with nursing mothers, sitting near her, hoping for the kindness of strangers, to aid them.
As I depart a country, I think about what to do, with left over currency, and try to leave it with someone who may appreciate it. In this case, I had over 120,000 Malagasy Aiary, or US$40. I needed some of this for tips of hotel staff and airport driver.
A few days earlier, when I was shooting the sunset, I had seen a well-dressed and equipped tourist negotiating a purchase of Koba for Koba. Apparently, he wanted two for the price of one and was successful in a drawn-out negotiation. I was, wondering how overpriced this dessert was to justify such adamant negotiation.
On my last night as I awaited the setting of the sun in a few hours’ time; I saw Koba diligently working below, I opted to leave my penthouse balcony perch, and see what the Kobas were all about. With Koba at the meeting of the streets, with the crisscross, of car, animal powered cart, cycle (motor and bike) and pedestrian I made my way to Koba.
I asked her how much for one Koba, and she showed me two fingers. Was it 2,000 ariary, no it was 200 ariary, or just under 7 cents US… All that negotiation the other day by my fellow tourist to get two for the price of one. To save 7c or pay 3.5c each. I thought, what a negotiator he was, in a country where people’s average earnings are a dollar a day, to have gotten her to give him a 100% discount, or 7% of a Malagay’s average daily earnings.
With that thought, I told her I would buy from her 250 Koba, but I only would need to take one with me; Giving her 50,000 Ariary or $15 for the one Koba, this one hour minimum wage amount in Seattle, Washington, was worth 15 days wages in her Madagascar.
She seemed a bit dumbfounded, when trying to give me change, that I would not accept. I left her with the 50,000 and more Koba to sell.
Shortly after this, my tour guide Eric Ranivo’s wife Haingo ranivo came to my hotel to drop off some Malagasy, beauty supplies for me. I asked her to come with me to Koba, to explain that I had been watching her work many hours for many days, as I enjoyed the sunsets from above and wanted to do something special for her. In the conversation, with this very shy girl, we found was 20 years old, and what surprised and confused by the overpayment, and was now appreciative to know why. So, shy we could not get her name, but she was sort of willing to share in a photo.
Later as the sun was setting, it was nice to picture Koba with a bit of a smile on her face as she interacted with her customers, not as serious of a look as she had had the preceding days.
The next morning when I awoke, Koba was not yet there, but there were the nursing mothers with children who were always there, looking up to me, asking for a donation, with a smile and hope on their faces. I wish there was something I could to about the world’s inequities, but I cannot. But I can, from time to time, do a small bit here and there to set aside some care to share. As Koba did as she worked, sharing portions of her own food, with the ladies with nursing children who were now asking me to the same. With little to give, Koba gives much. With much to gave, I give a little.
As for the one Koba I bought for the price of 250 Ariary 7c, I gave it to the hotel receptionist who had explained to me what Koba is. I hope someday to get her name, but I will never forget her humility and kindness shared with others more needsome than she.
More pics to follow, have limited time as I transfer flights.
